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“But the Falls Will All Disappear!”

By Awake! correspondent in Brazil

‘CAN’T something be done to save the falls?’ That was the question put to Brazil’s President João Figueiredo during his visit to the new, mammoth Itaipu Hydroelectric Plant in September 1982. How well it illustrated the controversy that surrounded the construction of the plant!

People who had lived and farmed in that area all their life were accustomed to the thunderous roar of their beloved Sete Quedas Falls. But, unbelievably, within a few weeks the falls would disappear​—buried under the huge lake to be formed by the damming of the Paraná River. The president’s answer: ‘If I save Sete Quedas, what will I do with that tremendous construction of Itaipu?’ only confirmed that the days of the falls really were numbered.

Itaipu (pronounced ee-tie-pooʹ, meaning “singing stone” in the Tupi-Guarani dialect) had been a source of conflict between industrialists and ecologists. From the point of view of Brazil, which spends $10 billion (U.S.) a year on oil imports, “Itaipu is more than just another power project, it is a symbol of a Brazilian development dream.” In fact, one enthusiastic government minister declared, “Building Itaipu is a question of civilization’s survival.”

What Price Itaipu?

The Sete Quedas Falls on the mighty Paraná River are not to be confused with their better-known neighbor, Iguaçu Falls, located on the Iguaçu River, a tributary of the Paraná. Concerning Sete Quedas, the Encyclopædia Britannica states: “The river has torn a 2-mi.a gorge through the red sandstone. . . . The result is a stupendous although not well-known sight. The river, which widens to a 3-mi. lagoon, suddenly becomes constricted between canyon walls only 300 ft.b apart. As a result the water boils in deafening crescendo, which can be heard for 20 mi., through several channels and some 18 cataracts in a total descent of approximately 300 ft.”

Local residents call it the place where the mighty Paraná goes wild. One geography professor put it this way, “There is no other more beautiful sequence of falls like it in the world.” No wonder, then, that to ecologists the burial of the falls was too high a price to pay! They, together with biologists, nature lovers, tourist agencies and, of course, the local inhabitants, wailed: “But the falls will all disappear!” And disappear they did!

On October 13, 1982, the diversion channel that had carried the Paraná River’s water during the years of the dam’s construction was closed. The river began to rise, slowly at first but later by as much as three feet an hour. Five days later, some 93 miles upstream, the effects of the rising waters began to be felt at the Sete Quedas Falls. Little by little the falls began to shrink in height as the water rose. Their deafening roar gradually diminished, as one by one the series of falls disappeared under the spreading lake, leaving only a series of ripples to indicate the location of what had been one of nature’s rare beauties. Finally, even the ripples smoothed out to become part of an enormous, serene lake, eerie in its utter silence. Yes, Sete Quedas had disappeared!

“Nature Loses Out”

The new Itaipu Lake, situated on the Brazil-Paraguay border, is about 420 feet deep and covers over 300 square milesc of farmland and 230 square miles of virgin forest. A preliminary study showed that in the area there were at least 117 species of subtropical flora, 90 species of fish, besides dozens of species of animal life, including jaguars, tapirs, hedgehogs and deer. Along with the falls, a number of historical and archaeological sites were buried in the watery grave. Of more concern were the hundred thousand people whose land had been expropriated for the project and who had to be transferred and settled elsewhere. All of these were weighty arguments for those who had opposed the construction of the Itaipu Dam.

On the other hand, advocates of the power project maintained that none of these arguments were strong enough to warrant delaying the construction. They argued: Expropriation costs would be minimal and included in the overall cost of the dam. Efforts would be made to round up and transfer animals to special reserves to be set up for that purpose. The huge lake that would be formed would no doubt attract more tourists than Sete Quedas ever had. And, of course, their strongest argument was the need for a new energy source to offset the enormous cost of importing oil.

And what was the result of the controversy? “In the fight between progress and nature, nature loses out,” answered Veja magazine. Consequently, in 1973 steps were taken to begin construction of what was to be the world’s largest hydroelectric plant, supplanting Grand Coulee Dam in the United States. Nearly ten years later the construction was completed. And on November 5, 1982, switches were thrown, opening the sluice gates permitting the Paraná River to return to its normal flow after the formation of the lake behind the dam. Installation of the turbines and generators would come later.

An International Project

The construction of the hydroelectric plant was a binational venture, with Brazilians and Paraguayans sharing the work, the cost and also the energy to be produced. Originally estimated at $2 billion (U.S.), the cost of the project has soared to over $14 billion. Inflation took its toll!

Nevertheless, both sides were jubilant when construction was completed two months ahead of schedule. States a booklet published by Itaipu Binacional: “The Itaipu project constitutes the greatest binational undertaking in history, contributing greatly to stimulate the economy of the two countries and to strengthen even more the bonds of fraternal friendship that unite Brazil and Paraguay.”

But those “bonds of fraternal friendship” were strained at times. One of the first problems had to do with the future electrical output of the plant, then in its planning stages. The binational contract stated that there be equal distribution of energy output to the two countries. Any excess of power not used by Paraguay could be purchased only by Brazil. But there was a problem: Paraguay uses 50-cycle current, whereas Brazil uses 60-cycle.

The solution? After much discussion, evidently heated at times, it was finally decided that nine of the plant’s generators would produce 50-cycle current and nine would produce 60-cycle. Any electricity purchased by Brazil from Paraguay’s excess would be converted to direct current for transmission to Brazil’s industrial centers and then be reconverted into 60 cycles. This Solomonlike decision solved the problem​—but to the tune of an additional $450 million (U.S.).

Project “Animal Hunt”

With all this monumental activity, you might be wondering, ‘What about the promise to preserve the flora and fauna of the lake region?’ Reportedly, the promise was kept. This side project was labeled “mymba kuera” (Tupi-Guarani for “animal hunt”). A special team of 156 screened personnel were trained two years in advance to recognize the many animal species, to handle the hooks, nets, snares, traps and anesthetic weapons, and also to prepare cages for animals, snakes and spiders.

Permanent areas of refuge were prepared in advance with personnel trained to feed and care for the animals during the period of their adaptation to their new habitat. This personnel had to be ready to do their work in a minimum period of time. Why? Because it was realized that during the two weeks in which the giant lake would be forming, numerous small islands would appear as the water level rose. And the animals would naturally seek refuge on these islands. But as the water level continued rising, most of these islands would eventually be covered by water, drowning the animals. So the rescue work had to be done while the islands were still above water.

By actual count, 667 small islands were formed, but only 44 of these remained when the water reached its high-level mark. During the first few days, enough animals were rescued to “fill a Noah’s ark,” and by the time the animal hunt was over, about 9,200 creatures had been captured and transferred to the special reserves.

The hunt had its humorous side. Why, one small monkey escaped from its cage and opened the doors of other cages nearby, allowing a large number of snakes and spiders to escape! A lively game of hide-and-seek was played before the prankster was finally caged again.

As for the plant life, 110 species of palms, wild pineapple and ornamental plants were collected. Several species of orchids were included, three of which existed only in that area. In this way much of the local flora was preserved.

On the move, too, were the hundred thousand residents of the area. For months prior to the flooding of the lake, families could be seen leaving by truck, cart and on foot, taking with them to their new homes everything of value. Some families even took along with them their dead loved ones to bury them in a new location. All cemeteries were emptied, unclaimed bodies also being reburied in other cemeteries. No wonder there were mixed feelings as D day approached. One local resident made no effort to hide his tears, saying, ‘I felt a horrible agony when I saw that lake. I never want to see it again.’ Another sobbed as he watched the lake gradually swallow up the falls, “It is just as if I were burying my brother here. Sete Quedas were part of our family.”

The Controversy Is Not Over

November 5, 1982, has come and gone. The mighty Paraná again flows normally​—but without Sete Quedas. In their place, but farther downstream, is their huge concrete “tombstone.” Industry won, and nature lost. But the controversy continues. As the Estado de S. Paulo put it: ‘On the one hand stands Nature in all her beauty and variety; on the other hand the “goddess technocracy.”’

Interestingly, concern is now being expressed over the changes in the weather pattern. It is reported that already there have been observed changes in atmospheric pressure. Increased humidity, stronger winds, constant rain over a large area in the south of Brazil and in neighboring countries are causing much speculation. Some attribute the changes to the new lake’s existence. Others are equally vehement in denying that the lake could cause any change in weather patterns. No one knows for sure.

One thing, however, is certain: Sete Quedas have disappeared and live only in memory. In their place are the 18 turbines of the “singing stone,” Itaipu. One by one they will eventually begin to spin, bringing electricity to millions of people. Only time will tell whether they, too, will win the affection of many, just as did Sete Quedas, the falls that disappeared.

[Footnotes]

[Map on page 21]

(For fully formatted text, see publication)

Sete Quedas

Paraguay

Paraná River

Newly formed lake

Brazil

Itaipu

Iguaçu River

Iguaçu Falls