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Harar​—The City Where Hyenas Roam

By “Awake!” correspondent in Kenya

JUST over a hundred years ago, Harar was a ‘forbidden city.’ However, in 1854 a British scholar and explorer named Sir Richard Burton decided to venture inside it. As he contemplated its mighty walls, he doubtless wondered if he would come out alive. Burton, though, had cleverly disguised himself as an Arab merchant. And with the help of his prodigious language skills, he gambled that he could pass as one of the city’s Muslim inhabitants. The ruse succeeded, making Burton the first European explorer to visit this East African city.

Today Harar is located in Ethiopia. And while entry therein is not quite as adventurous as in Burton’s day, the city still fascinates and intrigues visitors, for Harar is known as the city where hyenas roam at night! Harar today, though, is a double city, with modern quarters and about 70,000 inhabitants. The older section, in existence for well over a thousand years, has changed little over the centuries.

Approaching the old city and viewing its gates and towers, we feel as if we are approaching another world. Long before the founding of Ethiopia’s present capital, Addis Ababa, Harar enjoyed prominence. It was from Harar that 16th-century Muslim leader Ahmad Grāñ, “the left-handed,” led daring raids. His attempts to conquer Ethiopia, however, ended in his death​—and Harar’s overthrow. The city’s massive walls were built thereafter and have remained intact for over four centuries.

As in the past, so today, Harar is a center of conflict. Today, though, we are able to enter the city peacefully through one of the smaller city gates. We now pass through a labyrinth of narrow streets and twisting pathways. Lining them are flat-roofed houses with sloping walls, along with some whitewashed buildings and minarets.

It is too early to see the hyenas. But in the meantime we can enjoy the donkeys. Although their numbers are not as great as in the past, donkeys still navigate Harar’s streets, often without human guides. They climb and descend on the uneven, rocky surfaces of the alleys, never stumbling over the many protruding stones. Incredibly, the animals know just where to deliver their heavy loads of drinking water. Once there, they patiently wait to be unloaded and receive empty containers for the next delivery. Yes, this is the way some inhabitants of old Harar still receive their vital water supply​—a supply that has recently been hurt by the African drought.

At the marketplace, it is the Harari women that first capture our attention. Their dialect, costumes, and traditions reflect their ancient links with the Muslim world. Harar’s women have noticeably attractive facial features, framed by brown or orange shawls and fine headdresses. Their hair is plaited in parallel braids.

And what are they selling? Souvenirs found in thousands of homes all over Ethiopia: containers and trays woven from dry grass. Oval or round, orange or red or purple, adorned with various colors and designs, the trays are used to decorate tables and walls. The woven containers, though, are used for marketing and for the ceremonious serving of Ethiopia’s special dishes. Harari basketry is praised the world over for its quality.

The products of Harar’s silversmiths are also something to feast one’s eyes upon. Necklaces, amulets, bracelets, headdresses, rings​—all are skillfully made to the finest detail.

Before we realize it, dusk surprises us. We head outside the city walls to view the old town in the light of the setting sun. In earlier days, the inhabitants of Harar would escort strangers to the gates at nightfall and lock them out. But we are glad to step into the old city once again, to witness Harar’s special nightly attraction​—the hyenas!

Reaching an opening at the end of a narrow street and straining our eyes on this dark moonless night, we try to see which way to go. Suddenly, two pairs of reflecting eyes stare at us. We freeze on the spot. Just 16 feet (5 m) away are two wild hyenas. These are not dogs of the house-pet variety. Here are powerful creatures that have been known to take on animals as large as buffalo!

They have also attacked humans.

But to our surprise​—and relief—​they do not attack but turn their attention to a man seated on the ground. A basket of meat leftovers at his side, the man proceeds to feed the hyenas with his bare hands. No wonder that he is called a hyena man! Just when this practice of feeding hyenas began is not exactly known, but it has been going on for quite a while. When at dusk the hyenas of Harar leave their caves, holes, and other hiding places and head for the city’s walls, the hyena men are at various gates, ready to feed them. There the hyena men will sit until they run out of meat or bones, often about nine o’clock.

As our eyes adjust to the darkness, yet another hyena approaches slowly. The animal pauses and makes weird calls, inviting other hyenas to come. The hyena man starts to yodel, beckoning to these wild creatures. Finally they draw closer and settle down near the man, waiting to be served.

With a piece of bone in his hand, the man stretches out his arm and continues to yodel, calling the hyenas by their names. “Hoy-hoy, Philips. Nay!” he cries. “Philips” responds by getting up and slowly approaching the man. Grabbing its share, the animal quickly returns to its place. Then there is “Baby,” a young one that is less hesitant to answer the man’s call. “Birtukan,” “Kanubish,” and others also approach, gently opening their powerful jaws to get their share of food.

Perhaps the man’s favorite hyena is “Buray,” for he calls the animal “my son.” When Buray arrives, the man shouts enthusiastically: “Buray! Hoy-hoy, Nay.” While the man puts his arm around the hyena’s neck, the animal seizes the piece of meat. At times, the man holds a piece of bone with his front teeth, inviting Buray to take it. Buray does not disappoint him. Taking the bone from the mouth of the hyena man, the animal returns to its place, settles down, and crushes the bone easily with its strong teeth.

Flashlights and car headlights now illuminate this scene. Some tourists take pictures of this striking exhibition and give the hyena man some money. Fortunately, the hyenas are not perturbed by the lights and the crowd. The hyena man even permits some of the onlookers to take a piece of meat and feed the hyenas. We muster up courage, gingerly holding out a dangling piece of meat. Before we realize it, a hyena swiftly grabs the meat.

When we retire for the night, the hyenas roam about the rubbish dumps to search for more food. At times horses and donkeys die and are dragged away to provide a feast for the hyenas. The air is filled with roars, eerie sounds, and shrill giggling as the number of hyenas swells. By morning, just a few pieces of bone remain as the muezzin’s nasal chant awakens us. The hyenas return to their dwelling places, not very far from Harar.

There they will stay until nightfall beckons them to return to a truly amazing place​—Harar, the city where the hyenas roam.

[Blurb on page 15]

Donkeys still navigate Harar’s streets, often without human guides

[Blurb on page 15]

Two pairs of reflecting eyes stare at us. We freeze on the spot

[Blurb on page 16]

We muster up courage, gingerly holding out a piece of meat . . . a hyena swiftly grabs it